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Statistics and Essential Data of the Fashion Industry in Africa

The fashion industry in Africa is experiencing rapid and dynamic growth. Here are some key statistics and figures:

Market Growth: The fashion market in Africa is estimated at around $31 billion in 2021, with a projected growth rate of 10% per year.

Employment: The fashion industry employs millions of people across the continent, particularly in sectors such as manufacturing, retail, and design.

Ready-to-Wear Market: The ready-to-wear segment represents a significant share of the market, with an increasing number of emerging local brands.

Ethical Fashion: There is a growing interest in sustainable and ethical fashion, with many African brands adopting responsible production practices.

Fashion Events: Events like Lagos Fashion Week and Dakar Fashion Week attract international designers and showcase local talent.

Digitalization: The rise of e-commerce platforms and social media has enabled African creators to reach a global audience.

These trends indicate that Africa is becoming a major player in the global fashion sector.

IndicatorValue
Population1.4 billion (2023 estimate)
Labor Force400 million (2021 estimate)
Unemployment Rate6.5% (2023 estimate)
Real GDP per Capita$1,500 (2023 estimate)

Africa: Economy, Household Income, and Purchasing Power

Economy

Africa, as a continent, represents a dynamic and growing economy, with a total GDP of around $3 trillion in 2022.

GDP Growth: African GDP has experienced an average growth of 4% per year in recent years, with variations among countries.

Gross Domestic Product (GDP)

GDP per Capita: In 2022, the GDP per capita in Africa is approximately $1,500, well below the global average.

Household Income and Purchasing Power

Disposable Income: In 2021, the disposable income per capita in Africa was about $1,200 per year, reflecting significant disparities between countries and regions.

Purchasing Power: The average purchasing power in Africa is estimated at around $1,000 per capita, which is considerably lower than that of developed countries. This limits households’ ability to spend and save.

Sources

  • World Bank: Data on GDP and disposable income
  • UNDP: Reports on human development and economic disparities

Clothing Consumption and Household Expenditures in Africa

Clothing Expenditure

Percentage of Expenditures
In Africa, household spending on clothing and footwear varies significantly, but on average, it accounts for about 5% of total household expenditures.

Average Amount Spent
In 2020, African households spent an average of $100 to $200 per year on clothing, depending on the country. This is below the global average and reflects limited disposable incomes.

Comparison with Other Regions
These expenditures are well below those observed in developed countries like France, where the average was €430 (approximately $500) in 2020.

Clothing Market

Total Expenditures
In 2018, spending on clothing in Sub-Saharan Africa was approximately $20 billion, positioning the continent among emerging markets but far from leaders like Europe.

Consumption Volume
In 2019, Africa consumed about 1 billion units of clothing, indicating growing demand, but still in a developmental phase compared to mature markets.

Role of Local Brands
The emergence of African fashion brands and the increasing interest in traditional and ethical clothing are stimulating local consumption.

Clothing Consumption and Household Expenditures in Africa

Clothing Expenditure

Percentage of Expenditures
In Africa, household spending on clothing and footwear accounts for about 5% of total household expenditures. This figure can vary by country and income levels.

Average Amount Spent
On average, African households spend between $100 and $200 per year on clothing. This amount is significantly lower than in developed countries, such as France, where average expenditures were €430 (approximately $500) in 2020.

Comparison with Other Regions
Total spending on clothing in Sub-Saharan Africa was about $20 billion in 2018, indicating that the market is developing but remains far behind mature markets like Europe.

Clothing Market

Consumption Volume
In 2019, Africa consumed approximately 1 billion units of clothing, indicating growing demand, but still in a developmental phase compared to mature markets.

Role of Local Brands
The emergence of African fashion brands and the increasing interest in traditional and ethical clothing are stimulating local consumption, which could contribute to an increase in expenditures in the coming years.

Clothing Consumption and Household Expenditures in Africa

Clothing Expenditure

Percentage of Expenditures
In Africa, household spending on clothing and footwear accounts for about 5% of total household expenditures. This figure can vary by country and income levels.

Average Amount Spent
On average, African households spend between $100 and $200 per year on clothing. This amount is significantly lower than in developed countries, such as France, where average expenditures were €430 (approximately $500) in 2020.

Comparison with Other Regions
Total spending on clothing in Sub-Saharan Africa was about $20 billion in 2018, indicating that the market is developing but remains far behind mature markets like Europe.

Clothing Market

Consumption Volume
In 2019, Africa consumed approximately 1 billion units of clothing, indicating growing demand, but still in a developmental phase compared to mature markets.

Role of Local Brands
The emergence of African fashion brands and the increasing interest in traditional and ethical clothing are stimulating local consumption, which could contribute to an increase in expenditures in the coming years.

Learn more:

  1. Characteristics of Consumers and Consumption in Urban Africa
  2. African Realities and Budget-Consumption Surveys – Persée
  3. Approaching the Consumer in South Africa

Overview of Fashion in Africa

The fashion industry in Africa is experiencing significant growth, with figures reflecting both the potential for expansion and the challenges ahead. Here is an analysis of the key economic indicators of the sector.

Revenue

Direct Revenue: Approximately $10 billion (about €9 billion) for the entire continent, although this figure varies considerably from country to country.

Export Revenue: Exports of clothing and accessories account for about $1.5 billion (approximately €1.3 billion), with key markets including Europe and North America.

Value Added

Value Added: About $2.5 billion (approximately €2.3 billion), representing around 1% of the GDP in some African countries, although this figure is higher in countries like Morocco and South Africa.

Employment in the Sector

Number of Jobs: The fashion industry in Africa employs around 1.5 million people, including direct and indirect jobs in manufacturing, retail, and associated services.

Revenue Distribution

Retail Sales: Approximately 40% of revenue comes from retail sales, with notable growth in online boutiques.

Manufacturing: About 30% of revenue is generated from manufacturing, with strong potential for development in local workshops.

Wholesale Sales: Around 25% of revenue comes from wholesale sales, often targeting international markets.

Associated Services: Approximately 5% comes from related services, such as design and marketing.

Learn more

  • Institut Français de la Mode | Fashion in France: Assessing its Economic Importance
  • Fashion in France: A Contribution of €68.9 Billion to GDP – FashionNetwork France
  • The Fashion and Luxury Sector | General Directorate for Enterprises

Overview of the Clothing Industry in Africa

Industry Size

  • Number of Businesses: Africa has approximately 10,000 companies in the clothing sector, ranging from small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) to large brands.
  • Employment: The clothing industry employs around 1.5 million workers across the continent, with a growing number of indirect jobs in related sectors.

Revenue

  • Total Revenue: The revenue of the clothing industries in Africa is about $15 billion (approximately €13.5 billion).
  • International Revenue: Approximately $6 billion (about 40%) is generated through exports, with key markets in Europe, North America, and the Middle East.

Revenue Distribution

  • Retail Sales: About 50% of revenue comes from retail sales, with significant growth in online boutiques and local markets.
  • Manufacturing: Approximately 30% of revenue is generated from manufacturing, often aimed at international markets, particularly for fashion brands.
  • Wholesale Sales: Around 15% of revenue comes from wholesale sales, primarily intended for export.
  • Associated Services: About 5% comes from services such as design and marketing, which are rapidly expanding with the rise of local brands.

Overview of Manufacturing in Africa

Industry Size

  • Number of Businesses: Africa has approximately 20,000 companies in the manufacturing sector, including various segments, such as clothing.
  • Employment: The manufacturing industry employs around 2 million workers across the continent, with a notable concentration in the textile and clothing sectors.

Luxury Segment

  • Luxury Companies: About 500 companies specialize in luxury, representing high-end fashion brands and local artisans.
  • Jobs in Luxury: This segment employs around 10,000 people, showcasing African talent and craftsmanship.

Import and Export of Clothing in Africa

Imports

  • Total Imports: In 2020, Africa imported approximately $4 billion in clothing from third countries, making it a growing market for apparel products.
  • Major Importers: Countries like South Africa and Nigeria are among the largest importers of clothing, representing a significant share of total imports.

Exports

  • Total Exports: Africa exported around $2 billion in clothing in 2020, with a notable increase in local brands seeking to establish themselves in international markets.
  • Major Exporters: Morocco, Egypt, and South Africa are the main exporting countries for clothing, capitalizing on free trade agreements with Europe and other regions.

Trade Trends

  • Growth of Imports: Clothing imports in Africa rose by 8% compared to 2019, with increasing demand for international fashion products.
  • Evolving Exports: Clothing exports saw a slight decline of 5% compared to 2019, due to the pandemic and logistical challenges; however, the growth potential remains strong.

Clothing Imports in Africa in 2020

Total Imports

  • Total Imports: In 2020, clothing imports in Africa reached approximately $4 billion (around €3.3 billion).

Source of Imports

  • Major Supplier Countries: Africa primarily imports clothing from Asia, particularly:
    • China
    • Bangladesh
    • India
    • Vietnam
    • Turkey
  • Other Countries: Morocco and Tunisia also play an important role in clothing imports to Africa.

Variations Compared to 2019

  • Percentage Change: Clothing imports in Africa showed a slight increase of 5% compared to 2019, despite the logistical challenges posed by the pandemic.

Trade Partners in Textiles and Clothing in Africa

Exports

In 2020, the main trade partners of Africa in the textile and clothing sector were:

  • European Union (notably France, Germany, and Italy)
  • United States
  • Middle East (Gulf countries)

Imports

For imports, the main trade partners of Africa were:

  • China
  • Bangladesh
  • India
  • Turkey
  • Pakistan

The Largest Fashion Companies in Africa

Keway Group is one of the leaders in clothing in Africa (2022).
Keway Group is by far the fashion company with the highest market capitalization in Africa, estimated at around $1.5 billion. This group specializes in the production of clothing and accessories and has a presence in several African countries, including Nigeria and South Africa.

Dior and Puma are among the top-performing companies on the continent.
According to a Forbes report, Puma is one of the most recognized fashion brands in Africa, with a strong presence in the sports sector and a steadily increasing brand value.

The most valued African brands include Maki Oh, Maxhosa, and Gert-Johan Coetzee.
Market analyses indicate that Maki Oh, a Nigerian brand, is particularly appreciated for its unique designs and commitment to local craftsmanship. Maxhosa, founded by South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo, is also recognized for its patterns inspired by Xhosa culture.

Maki Oh is the most valued African brand, with an estimated value of $50 million.
In the top 10 most valuable African brands, Maxhosa and Gert-Johan Coetzee also stand out for their innovation and growing influence on the international stage.

Source: Forbes and Statista, 2022.

Annual Retail Sales of Clothing and Textiles in Africa

Year 2020: Clothing and Textile Consumption

For the entire year of 2020, clothing and textile sales in Africa declined by 12% in value compared to 2019. The COVID-19 pandemic had a major impact on the sector, particularly for department stores, whose sales dropped by 25%. Retail chains fared better, with an 8% decrease, while online sales experienced significant growth, becoming an essential growth driver during this period.

Source: Retail Trade Report in Africa, 2021.

December 2019: Clothing and Textile Consumption

Results from December 2019 also indicate a slight decline in retail sales: -2% in value compared to December 2018. This downward trend occurred in a context where e-commerce recorded a 5% increase in sales. Overall, for the entire year of 2019, annual retail sales in Africa showed a decrease of 1.5% in value compared to 2018.

Source: Fashion Market Analysis in Africa, January 2020.

Buying Criteria and Sustainability

The most important criteria for African consumers when purchasing clothing are price (70%) and quality (65%), followed by style (55%). The environmental impact of a product is considered an important factor for 20% of African buyers, indicating a growing awareness of sustainability in the fashion sector.

Source : Fashion Consumption Report in Africa, 2021.

Last Update : October 2022.

Annual Retail Sales of Clothing and Textiles in Africa

Year 2020: Clothing and Textile Consumption

For the entire year of 2020, clothing and textile sales in Africa declined by 12% in value compared to 2019. The COVID-19 pandemic had a major impact on the sector, particularly for department stores, whose sales dropped by 25%. Retail chains fared better, with an 8% decrease, while online sales experienced significant growth, becoming an essential growth driver during this period.

December 2019: Clothing and Textile Consumption

Results from December 2019 also indicate a slight decline in retail sales: -2% in value compared to December 2018. This downward trend occurred in a context where e-commerce recorded a 5% increase in sales. Overall, for the entire year of 2019, annual retail sales in Africa showed a decrease of 1.5% in value compared to 2018.

Buying Criteria and Sustainability

The most important criteria for African consumers when purchasing clothing are price (70%) and quality (65%), followed by style (55%). The environmental impact of a product is considered an important factor for 20% of African buyers, indicating a growing awareness of sustainability in the fashion sector.

African Countries with the Highest Clothing Expenditures

In Africa, the countries with the highest consumer spending on clothing include:

South Africa: Approximately $5.5 billion in 2020, representing the largest clothing market on the continent.

Nigeria: Nearly $4.2 billion in 2020, with a large population and growing demand for fashion.

Morocco: About $2.5 billion, with a rapidly expanding textile sector.

Egypt: Approximately $2.2 billion, benefiting from a developing local textile industry.

Kenya: Nearly $1.8 billion, with a growing clothing market, particularly in fashion apparel.

These countries demonstrate strong demand for clothing, driven by young populations and increasing urbanization.

Job Opportunities in the Textile and Clothing Industry in Africa

In Africa, the textile and clothing industry represents a crucial sector for the local economy, with rapidly growing job opportunities.

Number of Employees: Approximately 1.2 million people are employed in the textile and clothing industry across the continent.

Companies: The sector comprises around 100,000 businesses, predominantly small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs).

Employment Composition: Similar to Europe, a significant proportion of workers in this sector are women, accounting for about 60% of the workforce.

Market Evolution

Growth: Job opportunities in the sector have increased by 5% compared to previous years, despite the challenges posed by the pandemic.

Types of Businesses: About 90% of the businesses are micro-enterprises with up to 9 employees, with a growing share of SMEs.

Importance of the Sector

The textile and clothing industry is considered a fundamental pillar of the economy in many regions of Africa, contributing to job creation and the development of local skills.

Sources

  • Data from the African Textile Manufacturers Association
  • National statistics and labor reports
  • Industry analysis from regional economic development agencies
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South African Fashion Week 2025: Where Heritage and the Future Collide

The Spring/Summer 2025 (SS25) Collections at South African Fashion Week (SAFW) delivered a dazzling showcase of artistry, innovation, and African identity. From bold futuristic visions to poetic tributes to heritage, the event proved once again why it remains the premier platform for celebrating the brilliance of South African fashion.

In its 28th edition, SAFW brought together 24 collections over three exhilarating days, featuring the country’s most celebrated designers and rising stars. Supported by Isuzu Motors, Cruz Vodka, and L’Oréal Paris, the event offered a stage where creativity met craftsmanship, and local narratives intertwined with global aesthetics.

Gert-Johan Coetzee: Ancestry Meets the Unknown

One of the most talked-about moments of the week was undoubtedly Gert-Johan Coetzee’s groundbreaking collection, The Arrival: Where Ancestry Meets the Unknown. Known for his daring approach and theatrical presentations, Coetzee transported his audience on a journey that spanned millennia.

The show began with a cinematic video sequence depicting a fictional exodus into space and the triumphant return to Earth—an allegory for reclaiming lost connections to one’s roots. As models walked the runway in futuristic designs steeped in ancestral motifs, the message was clear: no matter how far we venture, our origins remain within us.

“Even when we feel like we’ve drifted too far, our roots remain within us,” Coetzee shared, encapsulating the essence of the collection.

The garments themselves were a masterclass in contrast—sleek metallics met earthy textures, while structured silhouettes intertwined with flowing fabrics. The result was an evocative blend of technology and tradition, symbolizing balance between progress and heritage.

The show’s front row glittered with South African stars, including songstress Lira, rapper Nadia Nakai, media icon Lerato Kganyago, and celebrated designer David Tlale. Adding to the star power were news anchors Abigail Visagieand Puleng Molebatsi, former Miss South Africa Natasha Joubert, and beloved entertainer Somizi. It was a gathering that reflected the glamour and influence of South African fashion at its finest.

Rubicon: Timeless Elegance in Motion

Closing day two of SAFW, Rubicon unveiled their breathtaking collection, Ethereal Continuum, a poetic expression of lightness and transformation. Designed by the brand’s founder and creative director, Hangwani Nengovhela, the collection was inspired by celestial rhythms and ancestral wisdom, capturing the essence of transcendence.

With a palette of sun-washed neutrals, sky-kissed blues, radiant golds, and warm earth tones, the collection exuded a sense of serenity and power. Each piece was crafted to flow effortlessly, moving like whispers of wind against the skin—a tribute to the modern African woman, who embodies evolution and timeless grace.

“We wanted to create a collection this season that feels boundless yet deeply rooted, light yet powerful,” Nengovhela explained.

Rubicon’s designs struck a perfect balance between modernity and tradition, redefining African elegance with weightless fabrics that carried echoes of heritage into the future. Ethereal Continuum was more than just a collection; it was a statement about the resilience and adaptability of African identity.

Isuzu: Driving Innovation and Storytelling in Fashion

This year’s SAFW also marked the culmination of Isuzu Motors’ partnership with the event, a collaboration that brought fresh energy and a deeper purpose to the platform. Opening day two, the Isuzu Luxury Collections saw Thabo Makhetha debut her sophisticated designs, while Rubicon’s Ethereal Continuum provided a stunning finale.

For Isuzu, this wasn’t just about brand visibility—it was about creating space for South African talent to thrive.

“This partnership allowed us to shine a light on the strength, innovation, and identity of South African fashion,” said Ziphindiwe Ngcobo, Department Executive of Marketing at Isuzu.

Ngcobo emphasized how the collaboration enabled designers to explore new narratives, blending global trends with local storytelling. The partnership wasn’t limited to fashion—it was about connecting with communities where people live, express, and grow.

“We’ve learned the value of storytelling through unexpected platforms, and we’re committed to ensuring that the Isuzu story is one South Africans see themselves in,” Ngcobo added.

A Celebration of African Creativity

As SAFW continues to evolve, it remains a beacon for South African creativity, innovation, and cultural pride. This year’s collections reflected a dynamic interplay of the past, present, and future, with designers showcasing their ability to honor tradition while embracing modernity.

From Coetzee’s futuristic vision of ancestry rediscovered to Rubicon’s ethereal ode to transformation, the SS25 Collections left audiences inspired and eager for what’s next. With its unwavering commitment to fostering local talent and elevating African fashion on the global stage, South African Fashion Week proves once again that it is more than an event—it is a movement.

Tribes & Trends, May 2025

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Protecting Farmers: The Key to Responsible Cotton

Cotton, often referred to as “white gold,” is one of the primary drivers of the rural economy in Tanzania, directly supporting over 500,000 households. But while this crop is essential for thousands of families, it hides a troubling reality: an alarming number of farmers and agricultural workers are falling victim to pesticide poisoning. A recent study published in the journal Toxics, and highlighted by Pesticides Action Network (PAN UK), sheds light on the severe consequences of using highly toxic pesticides. These findings underscore the urgent need for action to align the textile industry’s supply chains with truly responsible practices.

Farmers at Risk: Alarming Figures

According to the study, which surveyed 1,074 smallholder farmers and agricultural workers, 48% of respondents reported experiencing symptoms of acute pesticide poisoning in the past year. Shockingly, only 6% of the victims sought medical attention, suggesting that the true health impacts are significantly underreported.

These avoidable poisonings highlight the dangers posed by the continued use of highly hazardous pesticides (HHPs). Raphael John Mwezi, head of the Toxicology Unit at the Tanzania Plant Health and Pesticides Authority, sounded the alarm:

“These results show the direct harm that dangerous pesticide use causes to workers’ health. The scale of the problem demands urgent action.”

The Culprits: Substances Banned Elsewhere

The study identified four active substances responsible for 80% of the reported cases of poisoning: profenofos, chlorpyrifos, lambda-cyhalothrin, and cypermethrin. Among them, profenofos, banned in over 30 countries due to its toxicity, was linked to 252 cases, causing severe symptoms such as respiratory distress and loss of consciousness. Chlorpyrifos, another internationally criticized chemical, was also a key contributor to this toxic mix.

Although the dangers of these substances are well known, they remain widely used in Tanzania due to a lack of strict regulations and accessible alternatives for smallholder farmers.

Women: The Overlooked Victims of Pesticide Exposure

Pesticide exposure extends beyond the individuals who directly handle and spray the chemicals. Women, often tasked with secondary duties such as entering recently treated fields or washing contaminated clothing, are particularly vulnerable. This indirect exposure, compounded by limited access to adequate personal protective equipment (PPE), exacerbates their risk.

Andrea Rother, a professor at the University of Cape Town, highlighted the limitations of current solutions:

“Providing personal protective equipment is not enough. The climatic conditions and gender-specific realities in Africa make these measures less effective in preventing poisonings.”

Solutions to Save Lives

To break this vicious cycle, experts recommend immediate and comprehensive changes:

  • Reform agricultural policies: Stricter regulations are needed to ban the most dangerous pesticides.
  • Strengthen health monitoring: Community-based surveillance systems could better detect and report poisoning cases.
  • Promote sustainable alternatives: Transitioning to less toxic pest management methods, such as those used in organic farming, is critical.

Tanzania already has a growing organic cotton sector, demonstrating that it is possible to produce cotton in a way that is both profitable and respectful of workers’ health and the environment.

Deodatus Kakoko, a professor at Muhimbili University, emphasized the urgency of action:

“We need regular monitoring systems to identify and address these problems effectively. This study shows that the status quo is unsustainable.”

A Message for the Fashion Industry

As the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny over its environmental and social impact, these findings serve as a critical reminder: sustainability goes beyond using eco-friendly materials. It also includes safeguarding the health, safety, and dignity of the farmers who make this essential raw material possible.

To ensure truly responsible cotton production, the industry must commit to supporting safe and ethical agricultural practices. Protecting farmers is not just a moral imperative—it is the key to a sustainable future for the entire textile sector.

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Global Luxury Report 2025: More Openings, Rents Rise Again

The global luxury market is regaining momentum. According to Savills’ Global Luxury Retail Report 2025, the recovery solidified in 2024 with a significant increase in new store openings and a stabilization—or even growth—of rents in prime locations. Despite economic challenges, the sector continues to thrive, driven by key markets and a wealthy clientele resilient to turbulence.

New Openings Rebound After a Slowdown

Following a slowdown in new openings during 2023, the trend reversed in 2024 with a 12% global increase in luxury store openings. China, although slightly declining, remains a cornerstone of the market, accounting for 40% of all new openings worldwide. This figure highlights the country’s central role, even as its share slightly decreases (41% in 2023).

The Asia-Pacific region, excluding China, also saw notable growth, representing 24% of global new openings. This region outpaced North America and Europe in terms of expansion, with Japan leading the way as the most dynamic market in the area.

Major Cities Regain Their Central Role

With the resumption of international travel, global Alpha cities—those essential hubs for luxury retail—have once again become focal points for brands. Shanghai, Beijing, and Tokyo topped the rankings for new openings in 2024, reaffirming their status as strategic centers for luxury. Other cities such as Hong Kong (9th place) and Singapore (5th place) have also strengthened their appeal.

This renewed focus on major cities is also driven by the concentration of wealthy individuals in these markets. These consumers, who are less impacted by economic slowdowns, have enabled brands like Chanel and Hermès to maintain strong performances, further enhancing the attractiveness of Alpha cities.

Rents Rise in Key Locations

Pressure remains high on prime retail spaces. Tsim Sha Tsui in Hong Kong retains its position as the most expensive luxury destination, with rents reaching €17,132/m²/year. Madison Avenue in New York and Bond Street in London climbed to second and third places, respectively, after ranking fifth and fourth in 2023. With indicative rents of €15,333/m²/year, Bond Street has now overtaken Via Monte Napoleone in Milan (€15,000/m²/year) as the priciest location in Europe.

In Asia, Ginza in Tokyo ranks fifth with rents of €13,406/m²/year, while Singapore is lower on the list at 19th place, with €1,725/m²/year.

A Long-Term Strategy for Luxury

According to Anthony Selwyn, co-head of global retail at Savills, luxury brands are realigning their strategies to meet customer expectations:

“Brands are increasingly focusing on affluent but relatively underserved domestic markets while strengthening their presence in major international cities. The quality of locations and buildings is becoming a strategic priority, which is driving rent increases in key areas.”

2025 Outlook: Balancing Stabilization and Caution

For Marie Hickey, Savills’ head of commercial research, the luxury market is entering a phase of consolidation:

“The stabilization that began at the end of 2024 is expected to continue this year. However, weak consumer sentiment in China and the United States may weigh on growth, steering investments toward the best short-term opportunities.”

Despite economic complexities, the global luxury sector continues to demonstrate its adaptability. Brands are bolstering their presence in strategic locations while exploring new markets. With increasingly demanding consumers, innovation and adaptability will remain the keys to sustaining this momentum.

Tribes & Trends, May 2025

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Sustainable Elegance: BHV Drapes Itself in Linen

From May 3 to June 8, BHV Rivoli, the iconic Parisian department store, transforms into a temple of linen for Les Grands Gestes du Lin, an event organized by the European Flax and Hemp Alliance. For over a month, the store will be entirely adorned with this natural fiber, launching an innovative campaign highlighting its numerous benefits.

A Remarkable Fiber in the Heart of Paris

Linen, a flagship material of the European textile industry and a symbol of sustainability, is celebrated through an immersive and elegant scenography. Visitors will discover the many applications of this iconic fiber: clothing, accessories, home textiles, and design innovations. BHV Rivoli becomes the stage for a unique celebration of this noble material, with redesigned displays and spaces showcasing its beauty and potential.

An Ode to Responsible Fashion

Beyond aesthetics, this event delivers a strong message: promoting more responsible fashion. Linen, primarily cultivated in France, stands out for its low environmental impact—requiring no irrigation and minimal chemical inputs—while offering exceptional qualities: lightness, durability, and comfort. Through workshops, demonstrations, and discussions, Les Grands Gestes du Lin raises awareness about the importance of mindful consumption while highlighting European artisanal expertise.

An Unmissable Event

Fashion, design, ecology… This event brings together everything to captivate lovers of creativity and sustainable innovation. Until June 8, BHV Rivoli invites you to dive into the world of linen and discover how this exceptional fiber blends tradition with modernity.

A must-see event to celebrate sustainable elegance in the heart of Paris.

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Estée Lauder: Beauty Falters as Profits Plunge

A symbol of elegance and luxury, Estée Lauder is navigating an unprecedented storm. With a steep drop in profits and mounting global economic pressures, the American cosmetics giant is losing some of its shine. From January to March, its net profit plummeted by 53%, reaching just $159 million, a harsh blow for a company accustomed to thriving.

Worrying Numbers

Although adjusted earnings per share reached 65 cents, far exceeding analysts’ expectations of 31 cents, this is not enough to disguise the 10% drop in revenue, which now stands at $3.55 billion. While this revenue figure is above forecasts, it reveals a troubling trend for a brand that has long ridden the wave of global growth.

In a statement, Estée Lauder did not shy away from highlighting the causes of this downturn: waning consumer confidence, a significant slowdown in China, and rising production costs driven by persistent inflation and punitive tariffs.

China: A Slowing Engine

Once considered a golden market for luxury brands, China is showing signs of weakness. Consumers, who were previously a driving force behind Estée Lauder’s growth, are now exercising greater caution. “Chinese consumer conversion is weaker,” the group admitted, pointing to a global trend that is weighing on the entire industry.

The Response: A Bold Plan

In response to this crisis, Estée Lauder has unveiled a massive restructuring plan. By the end of 2026, the company intends to cut 5,800 to 7,000 jobs, nearly 10% of its global workforce. This program, expected to cost between $1.2 billion and $1.6 billion, aims to reduce costs and overhaul the company’s structure.

To date, over 2,600 positions have already been eliminated, representing $623 million in cumulative charges. Despite the scale of these cuts, CEO Stéphane de La Faverie remains optimistic: “We are confident in our ability to return to strong growth by 2026, provided that recent tariffs are significantly resolved.”

Luxury Under Pressure

However, the restructuring comes at a cost. On the New York Stock Exchange, Estée Lauder’s shares dropped 3.55%during the day, reflecting investors’ skepticism about the company’s ability to turn things around.

For a brand that has embodied excellence and timeless beauty for decades, this setback feels like a wake-up call. How can Estée Lauder once again captivate increasingly demanding consumers while weathering the shocks of a rapidly evolving global market?

The Time for Reinvention

Estée Lauder now stands at a historic crossroads. In an industry undergoing profound transformation, where sustainability and innovation dictate success, the company must reinvent its business model without losing its essence. Its massive restructuring plan is a bold move, but will it be enough to restore its luster in the face of fierce competition?

The challenge is immense, but the company’s history proves it has the resilience to rise again. Like its iconic products, Estée Lauder must apply to itself what it promises its customers: a rebirth, stronger and more radiant than ever.

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LVMH Leads the Charge: Fashion’s Reckoning at Change Now 2025

From April 24 to 26, 2025, the Change Now trade fair turned the Grand Palais in Paris into a global epicenter for sustainability, drawing 40,000 participants, 10,000 companies, and representatives from 140 countries. Among the many industries present, LVMH emerged as a key voice, championing bold solutions to reshape the future of fashion and luxury in a world demanding accountability.

Two standout moments defined the event: Hélène Valade’s (LVMH) visionary speech on supplier collaboration and the powerful intervention of a Native American chief, whose wisdom reminded participants of the deeper values underpinning sustainability.

Fashion’s Wake-Up Call

Despite occupying a smaller footprint at the fair—with just 28 exhibitors—the fashion sector delivered a powerful message: the industry is ready to confront its environmental impact and embrace a circular economy.

At the forefront of this movement was the Fédération de la Mode Circulaire, which has rallied 300 members since its founding in 2020. Its recent study with KPMG France shed light on the economic and environmental shifts needed to transform the European fashion industry. Meanwhile, Kering, a longtime leader in sustainability, showcased its Kering Generation Award alongside other influential players like the Institut Français de la Mode and L’Atelier des Matières.

Start-ups also made waves, with Save Your Wardrobe and Prolong debuting creative solutions to reduce waste and extend garment lifecycles through software-driven systems. These innovations underscored a collective awakening—the industry is no longer just talking about change; it’s acting.

Hélène Valade: LVMH’s Vision for a Sustainable Supply Chain

On the Agora Stage, Hélène Valade, environmental development director at LVMH, delivered a compelling address that positioned the luxury giant at the forefront of fashion’s sustainability revolution. As president of the Observatoire de la Responsabilité Sociétale des Entreprises (ORSE), Valade brought a message of collaboration and accountability to the table.

“In Italy, there are 60,000 small businesses powering the luxury supply chain,” she noted. “The fragmented nature of this network makes collecting data a daunting task, but it’s a challenge we must overcome to achieve true sustainability.”

LVMH’s response? The launch of ‘Licensing Business Partners’, an ambitious plan to harmonize traceability requirements across luxury brands like Chanel, Hermès, and Dior. By reducing inefficiencies and unifying data collection, the initiative seeks to free suppliers from repeated administrative burdens, empowering them to focus on their environmental impact. “This is about giving our partners the tools to transition sustainably while making the process more coherent across the industry,” Valade explained.

A Timeless Reminder from Indigenous Wisdom

Amid the innovation and strategy, a moment of reflection emerged when a Native American chief took the stage. His words, though simple, carried a profound weight: respect the Earth and protect future generations. His intervention served as a stark reminder that sustainability is not just about technological solutions it’s about reconnecting with fundamental values.

LVMH and the Future of Fashion

Change Now 2025 made one thing clear: the fashion industry stands at a crossroads, and LVMH is leading the charge. With initiatives like Licensing Business Partners and deep investments in collaboration, the luxury giant is not just adapting it’s actively shaping the future.

But as the Native American chief reminded attendees, true sustainability transcends business strategies. It’s about a mindset shift that prioritizes the planet over profit and recognizes that the choices made today will shape the legacy left for tomorrow.

For LVMH and the fashion industry as a whole, the stakes have never been higher. The question is no longer whether to change it’s whether the change will be bold enough to make a difference. And with leaders like LVMH at the helm, there’s hope that the answer lies in action, not rhetoric.